Visiting Vaikuntha

By Caru dasa

(The following article is adapted from an interview about conducting tours at the Utah Hare Krishna Temple.)

Srila Prabhupada told us, “Everybody is a devotee, some just don’t know it.” This is the perfect motto for anyone giving a tour of a Hare Krishna Temple. Giving tours is not difficult, because the visitors have come to the temple in order to learn something about Krishna Consciousness. So you can preach pretty straightforwardly. At the same time, it is interesting for the guests, and adds to your credibility as an expert on Vaishnavism, if you weave in some historical and cultural information. Overall, if you take the service seriously, the tour and your explanations should always evolve, getting better and better as Krishna gives more ability and intelligence.

The Temple

Our temple in Spanish Fork is built in the style of Rajasthan, so I begin by familiarizing the guests with Rajasthani architecture. I explain that sthan means place, and raja means king. (Since the people living there were known as the sons—putras—of kings they are called Rajputs). The architecture of Rajasthan is unique in India, integrating both Hindu and Moghul influences, and so we find about 90% of tourists to Northern India visit Rajasthan, with nearly all of those touring the capital city of Jaipur, which, due to the color of many of its buildings, is known as the Pink City.

The Rajputs were never conquered by the Moghuls, even though huge Moghul armies invaded India around 1000 AD. Like the Spartans of ancient Greece, there were relatively few Rajasthani soldiers, but they were unbelievably fierce fighters. Part of their creed was to commit johar (taking their own lives) rather than surrender. Even the women and children would drink poison rather than be captured. When the Moghuls did conquer two Rajastani cities, Chittor and Mewar, they entered the city only to find everyone dead! Anxious to get past the ferocious Rajasthanis so they could get on with their plunder of India, the Moghuls made a peace of sorts with them, including bringing some on as generals in their armies. This strategic co-existence was tenuous, but effective.

Many of our temple guests enjoy hearing tales of Rajasthan, so I engage them with accounts of how Rajasthani princes could become a king only after single-handedly killing a man-eating tiger! Today, if you visit the Martial Arts Museum in the Jaipur City Palace, you will see on display the two implements used by the Rajputs in these incredible feats of courage. One is a round shield, and the other a dagger, with a two plates to protect the wrist. The prince would stalk a male tiger in the wild, and once finding him would stare at him without blinking. This was critical, because if you blink, the tiger rushes over you like a locomotive. So, while going eyeball-to-eyeball with this giant man-eater, the prince would set himself on one knee and prepare his shield for the charge. Then, once ready, the prince would deliberately blink and trigger the awesome charge of the 600 pound beast. The Rajput would expertly use the shield to deflect the tiger’s charge up and over him, exposing the underbelly, and then thrust the dagger deep into the animal’s internal organs. This was the Rajputs rite of passage—you either earn your right to rule, or you become lunch for the massive man-eater.

Many such fascinating stories about the Rajastani people are narrated in Colonel Todd’s trilogy. Annals & Antiquities of Rajasthan. Because our temple in Utah is Rajasthani style, it is appropriate to tell some of this history to the visitors.

Naturally, we also want to speak to the guests about Krishna and Bhagavad-gita, and we do that in sort of a progression. Initially, I feel obliged to answer the first question on the minds of some of the guests (the timeless inquiry, “Why do you wear that earthen clay mark on your forehead?” ), but I also try to use it as an opportunity to give them a bit more insight into Vaishnavism. So in answer to this query, I suggest they imagine themselves on a pilgrimage to their holy land, let’s say Bethlehem. Wouldn’t they want to physically connect with the land that Jesus Christ walked upon thousands of years ago? Touching and feeling the earth in such spiritual locations is a direct way to absorb yourself in the sacredness of the land. Perhaps it serves as a way, even, to touch your head to the feet of your Lord. As they contemplate this idea, I always reach for my handy package of tilak, I keep nicely wrapped and tucked away in my pocket. It is a perfect opportunity to explain how we mark not just our foreheads but twelve parts of our bodies, and with each marking we recite a Holy Name of the Lord. “Om Keshavaya Namah, Narayana, Madhavaya, Govindaya, Vishnave, Madhusudanaya, Trivikramaya, Vamanaya, Sridharaya, Hrishikeshaya, Padmanabhya, Damodaraya.” I always speak the twelve names aloud. I notice it impresses them and they always seem to enjoy hearing the Holy Names in that context.

Changing Bodies

At this point I take the guests up the stairway, where they come face-to-face with a huge painting of the “Changing Bodies”. I then ask them two simple questions, First, “Is this one person or many different people?” Of course they respond that is just one person. So the second question is, “Is it one body, or many different bodies?” And nearly everyone replies, “It is one body.” So here is a chance to enlighten them about how the body is constantly being destroyed and recreated. I point out how medical science says that every seven to twelve years all the cells in your body are replaced by new ones. And I appeal to their common sense and experience, reminding them that although we now may have a middle-age body, some years ago we had teenage bodies. They can see it directly in the exhibit, so I ask them, “What happened to that teenage body?” It has been destroyed and replaced with this current body. Not only is the teenage body gone, but many others have also come and gone in the transpiring years. Everyday you are changing bodies, it just happens so subtlety you don’t notice it.

But although the body constantly changes, there is something within that doesn’t change; certainly not the mind, but rather something even deeper, more essential. What is that? Surprisingly, most people will say “your soul”, which allows me to put a finer point on it by explaining that we are the soul, and it is the soul who is dwelling within the various changing bodies. At the time of death, the changing continues, it’s just a bit more obvious. There will be another body waiting for me at the time of death, but it is up to us as whether it will be a material or spiritual body. If you have spiritual desires, you get a spiritual body, and you no longer have to endure reincarnating through various forms of life. This is a great time to pause and ask for questions, as I find people are interested in reincarnation, both higher life forms as well as returning to lower species.

Srila Prabhupada

The third station on the tour is the Srila Prabhupada murti. Here I ask, “How many of you have ever heard the term guru?” Everyone is familiar with it from books and advertising—self-help guru, business guru, golf guru, etc. However, few know that the real origin of the term comes from Sanskrit, and refers to someone who is “heavy” with spiritual knowledge and free from the cycle of birth and death (nice segue from the changing bodies exhibit!). The guru is like the lotus flower you see decorating so much of the temple. Just as the lotus flower grows in the (often muddy) water, it stays always clean and dry. Likewise, the guru may appear in this material world, but he remains a resident of the spiritual world, unaffected by matter. So he is here, yet he is not here. And because he knows what is matter and what is spirit, one who desires to transcend the cycle of birth and death needs to associate with a bona fide guru.

I am careful to mention that not everyone who is interested in spiritual life will necessarily make a full commitment—otherwise the guests may feel intimidated. But if someone wants to make serious progress in self-realization, then they need the guidance of a qualified guru. And what qualifies a guru? What do you need to look for before you accept someone as bona fide? Here I point to three important criteria, which allows me to really “unpack” the idea of the spiritual master.

The first criterion is purity of character. A guru must demonstrate that he is free of all material habits, especially the four principal bad habits of meat-eating, intoxication, illicit sex, and gambling. Without ideal character, claims to spiritual life are hypocritical, and such a hypocrite can never be a genuine guru.

Secondly, the guru should be full of scriptural knowledge. Books like the Bhagavad-gita reveal Krishna’s instructions, and the guru must understand these spiritual texts. If someone is taking you on a voyage, he must be able to read the map in full detail. Of course, because spiritual knowledge is realized knowledge, the guru must exemplify the scriptures in his personal life. Otherwise the learning is simply academic, and of little use.

Finally, I ask what the third qualification would be, and, interestingly, I have never gotten the correct response, namely that the guru must come in an authorized disciplic succession. We have the beautiful poster of the Brahma Madhva Gaudiya Sampradaya, all 32 representatives, placed near the Srila Prabhupada murti. So there we all stand, in front of the Srila Prabhupada murti, and just to the side is the entire parampara. It is an ideal setting for informing the guests that a bona fide guru must be the disciple of a previous guru. You cannot independently declare yourself to be a medical doctor; you must study at a legitimate institution and train as an intern for years. So also no one can simply claim to be a guru without having studied and been authorized by the previous guru. This logic is straightforward, the example is clear and effective, and I notice the visitors almost all begin nodding in agreement.

If the group seems sufficiently interested, I will continue to describe how Srila Prabhupada’s guru, Srila Bhaktisiddantha, asked him in 1936 to go and spread Krishna Consciousness in the Western countries. As a young man, Prabhupada couldn’t go due to his family responsibilities. But once he had discharged his family duties, he thought now it was time to go to America. Everyone discouraged him, saying, “In your old age, you can’t go to a foreign land with no resources. You’ll die there.” But Prabhupada countered, “I may die, but if I do, it will be in the service of my spiritual master.” So at the age of 70 he set off, traveling by boat and arriving in Boston Harbor in the winter of 1965, in weak health and the sum of only seven dollars. He put his life on the line for the sake of fulfilling the instruction of his guru and spreading the truth.

From this stark beginning at Boston Harbor, relying on his faith in God and his commitment to his mission, over the next twelve years Srila Prabhupada established 108 centers worldwide, initiated nearly 5,000 formal disciples and attracted millions of followers, and translated and produced commentaries on more than sixty books, with a total of 15 million copies published and distributed.

After explaining all this and letting it sink in for a minute, I pose the question (and keep in mind these are first time visitors to a Krishna temple), “Do you think Srila Prabhupada is a bona fide guru?” Invariably, they all agree.

The Deities

The next stop on the tour is viewing the Deities. Being aware that Westerners, especially Christians, often view the Deities as some form of “idol worship” is important in presenting arca vigraha to the temple visitors. Often, however, the best defense is a good offense, so I will just direct their thoughts to the beauty of the Deities, explaining that Krishna is the All-Attractive, and He attracts the minds of all His devotees with his enchanting flute-playing. And of all His devotees, the topmost is Srimati Radharani, Who, seen here standing beside Him, conquers Krishna with Her love and devotion. Radha means to worship, and Rani means queen, so Radharani is the queen of all the devotees.

Krishna is the original form of the Lord, but just as a candle can light other candles, so the form of Krishna expands into unlimited other forms, including Rama, Nrsimhadeva, Kalki, or Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. All these incarnations display different bodily colors, such as green for Ramachandra, but Krishna, the Original Person, is shyam, or blackish-blue, like the monsoon rain cloud. I will point out that Krishna is, in fact, the God of the Old Testament, but here He is in a much better mood. With a bit of humor, it seems the concerns they have about idol worship dissipate.

People new to the philosophy like to hear examples, so I compare Krishna’s various roles to a high court judge, who, wearing black and looking down from his elevated seat, must be stern and serious when dealing with criminals. But at the end of the work day, he will put on casual clothes, take his children to the park, and enjoy an ice cream with them. So God has many activities, and while He sometimes must enact punishment through His material energies, His most intimate and enjoyable activities are carried out with those fully devoted to Him.

The Holy Name

The final stop takes us to the kirtan instruments, and a chance to speak about the Hare Krishna mantra. Krishna means the All-Attractive, or God, and Hare refers to the energies of the Lord. As the sun and the sunshine cannot be separated, so the Lord and His unlimited energies cannot be separated. Earth, air, water, fire—these are all energies of God. And beyond these are His internal energies. So that Hare Krishna mantra is a complete mode of address, “O Lord! O energy of the Lord! Please engage me in Your service!” Not to ask for or to take something from God, but to give to Him in service.

To let them have a direct experience of the chanting, I offer to give a demonstration. I don’t ask them to participate, as many guests will feel put-upon, but I do make a joke about how in all the gatherings I’ve attended in my 38 years as a devotee, I have never once been invited to be the lead singer in a kirtan. So be forewarned! As I mentioned before, humor is a great way to create a more personal connection; in these situations, humor is golden. So then I chant with a musical instrument, and then explain kirtan and japa, pointing out that every religion uses song and music to praise God.

Then I ask them again if there are any more questions, and if not suggest they stay on as long as they like in the temple room, look over the paintings or architecture or whatever they find interesting.

Successful theme parks like Disneyland, or even big retail outlets like Wal-mart, always greet their guests and let them know they are welcome inside. If they need help locating something, they will not just tell them where to find it, but often take them there personally. Advertising tours and letting potential guests know there will be a qualified person to guide them helps people “cross the threshold” in a comfortable way. In my experience, by the end of the tour visitors have a much greater understanding and appreciation of Krishna Consciousness, they consider the devotees to be intelligent and articulate about their faith, and leave with a lasting favorable impression of our movement.